Bohemian Holiday

Germany pretty much shuts down for Christian holidays, including Easter, which was celebrated Friday, Saturday, Sunday and Monday of last weekend. Seriously- the only store open until Tuesday was Subway! So, I am happy that we took this opportunity to head to Bohemia- the western region of the Czech Republic-for the weekend. We stayed in Prague- which they call the "Amsterdam of the East"- and for good reason. It is hard to escape the fun that Prague has to offer. You can drink in the streets, meet young people from all over the world and dance until 6 in the morning. We had been here before to explore its beauty, but this time we had 20 male friends under the age of 30 along with us, so as you can imagine- it was a very different experience.

                                                         (Above: the Old Town Square in Prague, Czech Republic- so beautiful!

We took the bus into Prague on Friday afternoon, which was only a 4.5 hour drive (going 100km/hr).  It was a really cool trip through eastern Germany and into the Czech Republic. We just happened to drive into Germany's hop region- where they grow most of the hops for the German beers made here- which was very exciting.  

                                                          (German hop fields on our way to Prague)

Our first night there we checked into our hostel, and took the opportunity to spend some together- just the two of us (our friends got there earlier in the day and were already out and about when we arrived.) We walked around an Easter festival at the Old Town Square. The buildings here are so old, ornate and beautiful that they cannot even be described. 

(Left: Me drinking unpasteurized Pilsner at the Lokal; Right: up close look at the steins and the drink cards showing what you need to pay for before you leave!)

Then went headed to a bar called the "Lokal" where they served foaming glasses of unpasteurized Czech Pilsner in steins. (They were only serving one type of beer-which was delicious! The servers simply walked around the huge drinking hall asking patrons sitting at long tables if you wanted a beer, then they hand you one off of their tray, and mark it on your ticket. Then repeat until you are finished and pay your tab. It was such simple hospitality- it was perfect). Then we went to another random bar and I tried a elderflower cider from Switzerland (very good) while Nathan drank more Pilsner. We got a little lost on our way home (the tiny streets are very confusing) and then witnessed a huge street brawl (like straight out of a movie) between some young Spanish or Italians and English guys. It was a crazy spectacle but I guess it can be expected when so many different cultures are stuffed into bars and clubs and fed alcohol all day. It did not last long and they broke it up themselves, which is good because the police did not arrive until at least 15 minutes later (we finally heard sirens after we had made it all the way to our hostel.) 

                                                       (The train station in Plzen= Pilsen, Czech Republic)

 After a good nights sleep, we met with our friends and headed west to Pilsen on the train- the home of the legendary brewery Pilsner Urquell. We toured the brewery- where they brew the delicious Pilsner using an ancient triple mash recipe- in large copper kettles. We also toured the packaging hall, and the ancient cellars where they historically lagered the beer. Once again, we got to drink a free glass of fresh and unpasteurized Pilsner Urquell. It was so good- unlike anything you try at home- rich in Saaz hop character yet light and drinkable with a perfect foamy head. The brewing guys were geeking out the entire tour, while I just enjoyed the beer and the company.

(Top: Gate built at the entrance of Pilsner Urquell Brewery; Right: the fermenting vessels; Left: oak barrels filled with Pilsner in the cellar for lagering)

After the tour, we headed to the center of Pilsen- where they were holding an easter festival of their own around the old church. It was a great cultural experience because unlike the square in Prague during that weekend, most of the people here were locals. We tried different sausages, local bread, weird pasta, hot spiced wine, and danced to Czech music from a live family band (I have no idea what they were singing about- but it was interesting!)

                         (Above: Easter festival in town center in Pilsen; Below: Pilsners, warm wine, bread and sausages we had at the festival)

We laughed and joked on the train back to Prague, ate more pizza for dinner (seems to be the only cheap food you could get on the street in Prague beside weird sausages) and got ready for our night on the town. 

Our (mainly single) friends and some Swiss girls from our hostel decided they wanted to go to a giant disco tech (it had five differently themed floors with different music). We seemed to enjoy the European electronic music floor the best. There were crazy Czech go-go dancers, weirdly dressed models and lazers lights. There were people meeting people. There were cheap beers and jager-bombs. It was crazy! We danced and laughed, lost each other and found each other. It was definitely an experience- and as we get older I feel these experiences happen less often, so I am happy to have the memories-blurry though they might be. 

After one more bar and (mom do not read this part) some urinating in the street (bathrooms are hard to come by and you have to pay to use them), we headed home to our hostel. What a night!

The next day we ate weird McDonalds food for lunch and rested. I remembered loving the castle the last time we came to Prague, so Nathan agreed to set out to explore it again, even if it was cold and snowing. We walked around, over the beautiful bridge, around the castle grounds and finally made it up the 1000 stairs to the castle. We thought it was closed because we were the only ones there! It was perfect- it was so peaceful and calm that I could not help but feel like it was special-  almost magical. 

                                                       (Above:The Prague castle from the river at night; Below: Prague castle close up)

Then, to finish out our weekend we dined at a traditional Czech restaurant near the square. It is hard to eat indoors in eastern Europe because smoking cigarettes inside is the norm- and very popular! After being there all weekend, we got a little more used to it though. We shared beef goulash, and weird gnocchi with bacon. It was okay- the Czech Republic is not known for its good/healthy food but Nathan seemed to enjoy it more than me. 

(Czech Goulash- beef and local bread)

The next day, we took a train back to Munich and back to reality (a funny European reality). The train/bus ride itself is a gorgeous trip- small villages, rolling hills, mountain forests.....a little bit of everything. It seems like Prague is a destination for those around Europe who love history, art, architecture or just love to party. If you ever get the chance to take a trip here- I highly recommend it!