Berlin will wow you!

(Warning: The following pictures do not do Berlin justice! Go for yourself- the art, history and the nightlife is amazing!)

When our friend Tim asked if we wanted to go to Berlin for the weekend in his rental car, we could not pass up the opportunity. I have heard 1000 good things about Berlin and it would have been heartbreaking to have missed it- so on Friday we jumped in his rented Audi and rode 220 km/hr for 5 hours on the autobahn, headlong into the weekend.

We stayed at the “Generator Berlin” in Fredrichshain (one of the many hip neighborhoods)- the largest hostel in Germany (which is a nice choice if you are young and your goal is to party!) “If this is only the hostel, I have a feeling Berlin is going to live up to it’s reputation”, Nathan said as we watched the young travelers dance to the South African electro-dance band playing outside on the patio. After settling in, we headed to a local brewpub, and en route stumbled upon a large group of dread-locked punks, anarchists, and general party people parading behind an idling flat-bed truck equipped with a PA blasting hardcore techno. We ended up at one of the most interesting clubs I have ever been to, K17. Located in the middle of what seems to be a quiet, residential area, K-17 is a punk, gothic, retro, multi-story dance club in an old apartment building. The crowd was really interesting- most people were dressed in black leather and clothes of the gothic nature (we saw a few Marilyn Manson look-a-likes in full makeup). We stood out like sore thumbs but danced like maniacs and no one else at the club seemed to care how what we were wearing- everyone was just having a great time. I was not necessarily “at home” at K-17 but it was a perfect way to kick off the Berlin weekend!

We started off the day on Saturday eating Currywurst- a fast food meal that originated in Berlin in 1949. This pork sausage is covered in curried-ketchup and usually served with pomme frites or bread. I am not a huge fan of this dish but our friend Jeff ate it for 3 meals in a row and Nathan ate it twice while we were there- so it must of been good! haha

Then we headed to the East Side Gallery- a international memorial for freedom on a 1.3km long portion of the Berlin Wall in the center of Berlin. The powerful art here speaks for itself:

After the wall, we headed to meet my extended family that coincidentally happened to be traveling in the area at a lovely restaurant in Mitte- which is the center of Berlin. The interior of the restaurant has a 150 year old dance floor and ballroom (it was beautiful outside though so we sat in the garden to eat our lunch).  

We visited with my family and with their tour guide- a middle aged German man from Berlin that was incredibly knowledgable and also really fun to talk to! After some discussion about the crazy nightlife in Berlin, the tour guide told Nathan (away from the ears of my conservative Texas grandfather) all about the The Kit Kat Club- a crazy nightclub that is said to attract patrons from all over Europe and other parts of the world because of its music selection (techno and trance music) and its sexually uninhibited parties. The motto of the club is "Do what you want but stay in communication". Guests are allowed to engage in sexual intercourse openly at the venue. A strict dress code needs to be respected in order to get into the Kit Kat Club door- requiring fetish, latex, leather, kinky, high style, glamour. We decided that the Kit Kat Club would be incredibly interesting to attend but is probably not on the agenda- haha (like they would even let us in the door!) 

He also gave us some more approachable recommendations, like a bar and gallery of giants metal artwork called the MonsterKabinett located nearby. After saying goodbye to my family, we met up with our friends, had a drink at the bar (they would not let me take pictures- the art was amazing though) and went on the tour of the gallery- which was more of a show than a tour! 

After that, we headed north to see the Berlin Wall Memorial Site. The history of the divisive Berlin Wall is pretty incredible. This barrier was constructed by the German Democratic Republic (GDR, East Germany) starting on 13 August 1961, and completely cut off  West Berlin from surrounding East Germany and from East Berlin. In practice, the Wall served to prevent the massive emigration and defection that marked Germany and the communist Eastern Bloc during the post-World War II period. Between 1961 and 1989, the wall prevented almost all such emigration. During this period, around 5,000 people attempted to escape over the wall, with an estimated death toll of over 600. That being said, if you are into history, Berlin is for you- there is simply history everywhere! It would take months to see all of the amazing memorials, visit the museums and take in the sights. 

After the history lesson, we headed to the river to drink Berliner Weiss! Berliner Weiss is a sour funky wheat beer that is brewed in Berlin. It is traditionally low alcohol and served with a variety of syrups (which made the beer in the pictures below colorful) to balance the sour character (I like it natural as well.) 

To end the day (and eventually party into the night) we headed to Kreuzberg- a neighborhood known for it's nightlife scene. I have never seen so many laid back young people having fun in one place! People were drinking, eating and dancing in front of every building for blocks on end. We started off the night drinking and dancing at a little psychadelic bar named Cake- it had amazing murals, cheap drinks and a funny DJ playing everything from Pop tunes to Hip Hop. We finished the night dancing in this amazing basement covered with melting candles, beautiful people and incredible DJ's spinning vinyl 70's funk tunes at the Hotel Das Berlin (I did not take any pictures here because I was having too much fun). This tiny underground club was located in a residential area off of the main street and seemed to be filled with local Berliners. We could not help but we feel like we had stumbled upon something special here It was almost magical.

 

On Sunday, we stopped at the Brandenburg Gate and walked around the big tourist area in the Mitte. The boys wanted to write "WBA 2013" (World Brewing Academy) on the back side of the wall- which was a fun way to commemorate our weekend. 

On our way back, we stopped in a small city called Lipzig, home of another northern specialty-the Gose beer. We stopped to enjoy the Gose, which is a top-fermented beer style of Leipzig, Germany, brewed with wheat. Dominant flavors in Gose include a lemon tartness, a herbal characteristic, and a strong saltiness (mainly because coriander and salt are usually added) and it is also served with red or green syrup unless you request otherwise. It was really interesting- and because I am a fan of salty flavors, I really liked it!

In conclusion, our Berlin weekend was incredible. It was a great contrast from Bavaria, which is very clean, wealthy and traditional. I loved the atmosphere, the beauty of the city, the history and the laid back nature of the people. It is definitely the most artistic, "hip" and yet unpretentious place I have ever been. If you come to Europe- you cannot miss this stop (and you can wear Chaco sandals to the night club and no one looks at you funny haha)!

Falling in love with Bavaria......

Well, the last few weeks have been pretty amazing here, it finally stopped raining and has been bright, green and beautiful. Tourist season has also begun so English speakers are everywhere and there is excitement in the air. It is hard not to fall in love with such a beautiful area. I have been slacking on the blogging so I thought I would catch you all up on what we have been up to with some pictures and stories.

The first week we were back in Munich, our friends Steve and Matt came to visit! It was really great because while Nathan was at school all day, I got to do all the "tourist" activities with them. We went to the BMW Museum (took some pics below), walked around Olympic Stadium, visited Nathan's school, drank beer by the river, ate at the farmer's market, went to the Hofbrau house and visited beer gardens every night.

At one of the local beer halls, I ate my first pork knuckle with potato dumpling, which is a very popular German specialty! I was a little intimidated at first, but after a few good beers, this decadent meal was perfect. They cook the skin so the outside becomes crispy and the inside is packed with flavor- you cannot beat it. 

I also tried Weisswurst, which is traditional Bavarian sausage made from very finely minced veal and fresh pork back bacon then flavored with spices. You traditionally remove the casing before you eat it. I was slightly dissappointed with these boiled sausages- I was expecting a richer flavor, I did not enjoy the sweet mustard and thought the texture was strange without the crunch of the casing. I will stick to the bratwurst and pretzels from here on out....

On the last night Steve and Matt were here, we went to Augustiner Keller Beirgarten (which accommodates over 7,000 people at once,) where we drank liters of Augustiner's famous oak aged Helles in German steins! (This is Nathan's favorite beer is Munich- it is light and crisp with a full flavor and hint of sweetness.)

The beer gardens are beautiful (and abundant) but the parks are even better! One of my favorite places to visit is the English garden, the world's largest public park. It is located near the university here, so young people gather here daily to relax and soak up the sun. My friend Summer and I went on a picnic there this week.....we will definitely be going back throughout the summer.

Last weekend, we went with some of the other brewers to the Eagle's Nest in Salzburg, Austria- which is just a short train ride into the Bavarian alps. Salzburg is really beautiful (you can take the "Sound of Music" tour there) but we spent most of our day at the Eagle's nest! The Kehlsteinhaus (it's German name) was intended as a 50th birthday present for Adolf Hitler to serve as a retreat, and a place for him to entertain visiting dignitaries. It is located on the top of a mountain, so you take a high powered bus to the top to hike around and catch the spectacular views. There is something for everyone- history, climbing, and restaurant with Bavarian brews.

Anyways, besides school and babysitting, that is what we have been doing! Only 5 more weeks until we return to Texas! Stay tuned- we are headed to Berlin this weekend to enjoy the largest and lively German capital. 

Foodie paradise: The Viktualienmarkt

           (The maypole in the center of the market illustrates the different craftsman in the area- including the brewers and their famous Reinheitsgebot)

It took me a little while but I think I  found my favorite place in Germany! The Viktualienmarkt is an amazing food market and a square in the center of Munich near the Marienplatz. The Viktualienmarkt (victuals is the term for food in Latin) developed from an ancient original farmers' market to a popular market for tourists and local foodies. In an area covering 240,00 square feet, about 140 stalls and shops offer flowers, exotic fruit, game, poultry, spices, cheese, fish, juices and so on. If you like going to your local farmers market, you will totally geek out at this place! Every time I get the chance to go, I walk around in awe of the exotic fruits, stare at the incredible cheeses and sample anything I can get my hands on. It is a foodie paradise. The place is in incredibly inspiring and I want to do all my shopping there (but it is expensive). 

Plus, there is a lovely biergarten and picnic area in the center of the whole thing- which is my favorite place to grab some fresh fried fish or German cuisine and hang out with a beer or glass of Reisling on a nice day!

I took some pictures of some of the booths at the market this weekend to give everyone an idea:

A life changing experience.....

                                                                          (Pictures of some our favorite Romanian furry friends)

Going to Romania was not glamorous, it is not clean and refined, but it certainly has character. I am familiar with traveling, but this experience was different than anything I imagined. I usually take in the sights and the culture, eat the food and walk around in awe of the land. I had never traveled to a country that had felt the oppression of communism so recently. I had never stayed long enough to see the effect of long term poverty on an entire country. I guess I had no idea where we were going- and it was hard to piece together all of it. As an American, I now realize the poorest and most desperate parts of the world seem to be hidden away from us- shown occasionally as news stories from seemingly another planet. I am familiar with the challenges the the poor and sick face at home- but as a whole we are very fortunate to have the government, the intellectual freedom and healthcare we have.

I am guilty of hiding the ugly myself, for I did not post the pictures of the rivers filled with garbage in Romania. I did not post pictures on my blog of the devastated buildings, the beggars, the moldy produce or rotting animals left in the streets. I wanted to show my friends and family the beauty of Romania, but I realized it is also important to explain the ugly side.

After being there a month, we got the pleasure to sit down with our young landlord Raluca and her boyfriend. They confirmed many things about Romania that we thought to be true. They told us Romania is definitely one of the poorest country in Europe- the average Romanian income is 340 euros a month (which is why the cost of living in Romania is also very cheap). Most Romanians cannot afford to ever leave the country. They cannot afford to go out to eat everyday (most people sit in cafes only to enjoy a soda, or cheap beer.) They told us today in Romania, there is no real middle class. Both Raluca and her boyfriend work full time in banking but claim they even struggle to pay off her mortage on her apartment (which cost 8,000 Euros when she bought it.) Property values have increased in some regions, but most investment and industry is being outsourced to other countries, making the country even poorer.

They remember the revolution of 1989 (our landlord Raluca was 7 years old and her boyfriend 12 years old at that time). They remember being in hiding. They told us that after the revolution, the country was very chaotic because of the end of communism- they did not know what to do with themselves or how to make a living. They remember getting a voucher for one half loaf of bread to feed their families daily because of the lack of food. People could barely care for their families, much less their pets- which is why so many generations of "wild" dogs and cats roam the streets and villages of the country today.

They explained that many Romanians in smaller villages grow their own food and raise their own animals but large agriculture is limited because after the revolution the government gave small plots to all citizens. Most cannot afford to buy large properties in order to grow large crops and most are not willing to give up their small plots anyway, causing a halt in commercial farming.

They told us medical care in Romania is very limited and life expectancy is very short- about 70 years. They cannot afford to pay good doctors, so skilled medical professionals go elsewhere to make more money.

The government owned property in large cities are decently maintained, but private residences are usually is poorer condition. The cities are literally falling apart. It seems overwhelming to even think about restoring most of the property without tearing it down and starting over, which they cannot afford.

The public transportation system has grown but it is still lacking. Riding in a car in Bucharest was definitely one of the scariest things I have ever experienced because traffic laws are not really practiced or enforced well in the cities.

I realize that as an American, I am in no way qualified to speak or write about the lives of real Romanians. They have a vast history, a beautiful landscape and plenty of heart. I do not mean to be disrespectful when talking about their struggles or their culture. I cannot really even wrap my head around most of these things but seeing a glimpse of their struggle was very powerful. I understand it might take centuries to recover from a lifetime of Soviet communism. It must take generations to learn to thrive in a capitalist economy. It was amazing to see how resilient and positive the people of Romania are. Most people we met were incredibly kind and hospitable. All in all, it changed my perception and reminded me to not take for granted the simple things. I am so thankful for this experience.

                                       
                                                                        ( A few more pictures that captured the buildings in Romania)

The Black Sea Coast

(Below: Left:Ovid's square- Roman emperor Augustus exiled Ovid to present day Constanta in 8 AD- he looks sad in his statue; Right: Carol I Mosque- Constanta is the center of Islam in Romania)

For the final week of our Romanian adventure, we rented a car and headed to the Black Sea Coast. Considering the vast extremes I had come to get used to while being in Romania, I did not know what to expect, but we read attractive things about Vama Veche.

We decided we would stay at a little yellow hotel (basically a little beach shack) for 5 nights.  Vama is a little beach village known for it’s rebellious young crowd and bohemian vibe (little bars and bohemian stores line the street-there are a few music themed bars and pirate bar). We arrived Friday night and headed to a beach bar where we found young Romanians drinking cheap beer and dancing in the moonlight. It was very interesting as promised. The friendly Romanian wild dogs were surreally scattered along the beach playing and resting throughout the day and night. Every morning, the young hotel owner made us a fresh breakfast on the patio (the food was not great but his enthusiastic spirit was contagious.) During the day, we explored the area or rented beach chairs under the cheap cabanas. The wind was cold as it blew over the water to the cigarette littered sand but the sun was always bright. We arrived too early in the season to see Vama Veche at it's prime (thousands of young people come to camp on the beach in late July and August when the water is warm) but I could imagine how much potential the place held. It was a nice change from the mountain scenery that I usually choose to enjoy.

(Below: Left: Kitty is front of our hippie beach hotel- Golden Sea Hotel; Right: Relaxing on the beach with our friend the "wild" dog)

One day we visited Constanta, which is the largest city on the coast. An ancient metropolis and Romania's largest sea port, Constanța traces its history some 2,500 years. Originally called Tomis, legend has it that Jason landed here with the Argonauts after finding the Golden Fleece. Yet, for me it was hard to see the historical value in this city over the distractions of the city and it's people. We stayed in an upscale hotel on the water (which cost 40 USD a night) and walked around the city during the day. Constanta is still in ruins after the revolution but people seemed to be enjoying themselves (besides the few historical squares, probably 80 percent of the buildings are falling down or are under construction and the other 20 percent completely new buildings.) It was incredibly surreal- shop owners yell at gypsy families stealing their merchandise, while children run laughing along the streets with the "wild" dogs. Trash fills the large holes in every sidewalk, while wealthy visitors dine in newly designed cafes a block down. It was a lot to absorb and understand. 

(Above: Pictures from the coast line around Constanta and Neptune)

The most exciting part about Constanta for me was the seafood. We had our favorite meal in Romania at the Marina there- fresh mussels cooked in a garlic butter broth and whipped pike row on toast. It was amazing (and the service was perfect) and it cost less than 20 USD for dinner with a round of drinks.