The Black Sea Coast

(Below: Left:Ovid's square- Roman emperor Augustus exiled Ovid to present day Constanta in 8 AD- he looks sad in his statue; Right: Carol I Mosque- Constanta is the center of Islam in Romania)

For the final week of our Romanian adventure, we rented a car and headed to the Black Sea Coast. Considering the vast extremes I had come to get used to while being in Romania, I did not know what to expect, but we read attractive things about Vama Veche.

We decided we would stay at a little yellow hotel (basically a little beach shack) for 5 nights.  Vama is a little beach village known for it’s rebellious young crowd and bohemian vibe (little bars and bohemian stores line the street-there are a few music themed bars and pirate bar). We arrived Friday night and headed to a beach bar where we found young Romanians drinking cheap beer and dancing in the moonlight. It was very interesting as promised. The friendly Romanian wild dogs were surreally scattered along the beach playing and resting throughout the day and night. Every morning, the young hotel owner made us a fresh breakfast on the patio (the food was not great but his enthusiastic spirit was contagious.) During the day, we explored the area or rented beach chairs under the cheap cabanas. The wind was cold as it blew over the water to the cigarette littered sand but the sun was always bright. We arrived too early in the season to see Vama Veche at it's prime (thousands of young people come to camp on the beach in late July and August when the water is warm) but I could imagine how much potential the place held. It was a nice change from the mountain scenery that I usually choose to enjoy.

(Below: Left: Kitty is front of our hippie beach hotel- Golden Sea Hotel; Right: Relaxing on the beach with our friend the "wild" dog)

One day we visited Constanta, which is the largest city on the coast. An ancient metropolis and Romania's largest sea port, Constanța traces its history some 2,500 years. Originally called Tomis, legend has it that Jason landed here with the Argonauts after finding the Golden Fleece. Yet, for me it was hard to see the historical value in this city over the distractions of the city and it's people. We stayed in an upscale hotel on the water (which cost 40 USD a night) and walked around the city during the day. Constanta is still in ruins after the revolution but people seemed to be enjoying themselves (besides the few historical squares, probably 80 percent of the buildings are falling down or are under construction and the other 20 percent completely new buildings.) It was incredibly surreal- shop owners yell at gypsy families stealing their merchandise, while children run laughing along the streets with the "wild" dogs. Trash fills the large holes in every sidewalk, while wealthy visitors dine in newly designed cafes a block down. It was a lot to absorb and understand. 

(Above: Pictures from the coast line around Constanta and Neptune)

The most exciting part about Constanta for me was the seafood. We had our favorite meal in Romania at the Marina there- fresh mussels cooked in a garlic butter broth and whipped pike row on toast. It was amazing (and the service was perfect) and it cost less than 20 USD for dinner with a round of drinks.